First choose "Find the battery size you need" or "How long a battery lasts". To find the size, enter the energy you want to use (kWh) directly, or add up the wattage (W) and hours of the devices you want to run. To find how long it lasts, enter the battery's rated capacity (kWh) and the total wattage (W) of the devices you use together. A blank depth of discharge or efficiency is treated as 90%.
Table of Contents
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What you can do on this page
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What is this calculation used for?
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How to Use
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Formula
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Symbols and terms
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Good to know before you start
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How to calculate it in Excel
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How to calculate it in Google Sheets
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How to calculate it in Python
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How to write it in LaTeX and other math languages (copy and paste)
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How to have ChatGPT do the calculation
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DataChef Features
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Related Features
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NumberChef Calculators List
What you can do on this page
- Enter the energy you want to use (kWh), such as "10 kWh overnight", or add up the wattage (W) and hours of up to 5 devices you want to run in an outage. You get the rated battery capacity (kWh) you need, allowing for depth of discharge (DoD) and efficiency, and a typical product size (4 to 16 kWh)
- From the rated capacity (kWh) of a battery you have or are considering, find the energy you can really use (usable capacity) and how long it runs your devices together (hours and minutes)
- A bar chart splits the rated capacity into "usable", "lost to efficiency" and "held back by depth of discharge"
- Presets give typical wattages for devices people often run in an outage, such as a refrigerator, LED lights, TV, phone charging, microwave, window AC, CPAP machine and sump pump. You can change the numbers freely
- A plain-language explanation of rated vs. usable capacity, DoD, efficiency and power rating (kW), plus copy-and-paste formulas for Excel, Google Sheets and Python, are all on this page
What is this calculation used for?
In a power outage, the first worries are the food in the refrigerator, the dark and staying in touch. Running a refrigerator (50 W average) for 24 hours, LED lights (40 W) for 6 hours, a TV (100 W) for 4 hours and phone charging (30 W) for 3 hours takes 1.2 + 0.24 + 0.4 + 0.09 = 1.93 kWh. With a battery at 90% DoD and 90% efficiency, the rated capacity needed is 1.93 ÷ 0.81 ≈ 2.38 kWh, so even a small 4 kWh class battery or a large portable power station would last one night.
But not every outage ends in one night. After hurricanes, winter storms or wildfire-related shutoffs, power can be out for days, and whether solar can recharge the battery in the daytime changes the size you need a lot. Deciding as a family how many days to plan for and which devices to do without is the starting point for choosing a size. If someone at home uses medical equipment such as a CPAP machine, include it first.
Solar only produces in the daytime, so to cover your electricity after sunset yourself, you need to store the daytime surplus in a battery. What the battery must cover is roughly your overnight use (from sunset until the panels start producing the next morning). For example, if a home energy monitor or your utility's hourly data shows 10 kWh overnight, then at 90% DoD and 90% efficiency the rated capacity needed is 10 ÷ 0.81 ≈ 12.35 kWh, and a product of about 14 kWh is the guide.
On the other hand, a 10 kWh battery gives 10 × 0.81 = 8.1 kWh of usable energy, covering about 8 of the 10 kWh overnight, with the rest bought from the grid. Whether to choose a size that covers everything, or a smaller one and buy the rest, is a trade-off with cost (use the related solar payback calculator for the money side). With time-of-use rates, even a smaller battery can be worth it if it covers the expensive evening peak.
In a summer outage, pets left at home or a fish tank can overheat. Running a window AC unit at an average of 500 W for 24 hours takes 500 × 24 ÷ 1000 = 12 kWh. At 90% DoD and 90% efficiency, the rated capacity needed is 12 ÷ 0.81 ≈ 14.81 kWh, which means the 16 kWh class, the top of this calculator's range for a single home battery.
So "air conditioning all day" is hard on a battery alone. You need to plan on recharging from solar in the daytime, or combine a fan (40 W, about 1 kWh for 24 hours) with a higher thermostat setting. Whether 240-volt central air or other large loads can run in an outage depends on the backup type (whole-home or partial-home) and the power rating, so check with the installer before you buy.
A battery with a rated capacity of 10 kWh at 90% DoD and 90% efficiency can deliver 10 × 0.81 = 8.1 kWh. With a refrigerator (50 W), LED lights (40 W), a TV (100 W) and a Wi-Fi router (10 W), 200 W in total, it lasts 8100 ÷ 200 = 40.5 hours, about 40 hours 30 minutes. Add a window AC at 500 W for 700 W in total, and it drops to 8100 ÷ 700 ≈ 11.6 hours; while a microwave (1000 W) runs, the total is 1700 W, and the battery drains by 1.7 kWh per hour.
As you can see, the runtime depends a lot on what you use at the same time. Deciding in advance which devices come first in an outage, and checking the battery's power rating (the limit on total wattage), keeps you from scrambling when the power goes out.
Portable power stations for camping and emergencies list their capacity in Wh, such as "1000 Wh". 1000 Wh = 1 kWh, so enter "1" on this page. The capacity on a portable power station is the energy in the battery (rated capacity), and you can usually draw out about 80% to 90% of it after conversion losses. With 100% DoD and 85% efficiency, the usable energy is 1 × 0.85 = 0.85 kWh: an electric blanket (50 W) runs for 850 ÷ 50 = 17 hours, and a fan or a CPAP machine without its heated humidifier (about 40 W) for about 21 hours.
On the other hand, a high-power device such as an electric kettle (1200 W) may not run at all because of the power rating (for example, 600 W at most), even with enough capacity. When choosing a portable power station, the tip is to look at both the capacity (Wh) and the output (W).
Formula
Symbols and terms
Symbols
| \(E_r\) | E sub r | The rated battery capacity (kWh), the capacity on the spec sheet. \(E\) is for energy, and the small \(r\) is for rated. |
| \(E_u\) | E sub u | The energy you can really use (usable capacity, kWh). The small \(u\) is for usable. When finding the capacity needed, it means the energy you want to use. |
| \(D\) | D | The depth of discharge (%), how much of the rated capacity is used. From "Depth of Discharge", also written DoD. |
| \(\eta\) | eta | The efficiency (%), the share of the stored energy that reaches your devices. The Greek letter eta is the usual symbol for efficiency in physics and engineering. |
| \(t\) | t | The runtime (hours). From the first letter of "time". |
| \(P\) | P | The total wattage of the devices used together (W). From the first letter of "power". |
| \(P_i,\ t_i\) | P sub i, t sub i | The wattage (W) and hours of use of device \(i\) (the 1st, 2nd, and so on). The small \(i\) is the position number, from "index". |
| \(\sum\) | sigma | The symbol for "add them all up", the Greek letter sigma (S for sum). Here it means adding the energy of device 1, device 2, and so on. |
| 100, 1000 | one hundred, one thousand | Constants for converting units. 100 turns a percent into a decimal (such as 0.9), and 1000 converts between kWh and Wh (k = kilo = 1,000 times). |
Terms
| rated capacity | The amount of energy the maker says the battery can store (kWh), also called nominal or total capacity. It is the size of the battery itself, and not all of it can be used by your devices. |
| usable capacity | The part of the rated capacity that actually reaches your devices (kWh), the rated capacity times DoD and efficiency as decimals. Some spec sheets list it. When comparing batteries, comparing usable capacity is closer to real life than comparing rated capacity. |
| depth of discharge (DoD) | How much of the rated capacity is used (%). Draining a lithium-ion battery all the way shortens its life, so products limit the range they use, such as "down to 10%". A DoD of 90% means 10% of the rated capacity is always kept in reserve. |
| efficiency | The share (%) of the stored energy that is not lost on the way to your devices. Some turns into heat in the battery and the inverter during discharge. This calculator applies these losses once to the rated capacity as the "efficiency". 85% to 95% is common for home batteries. |
| round-trip efficiency | The share (%) of energy that is not lost over the whole trip from charging to discharging. The efficiency on a spec sheet is often this round-trip value, which includes charging losses. Entering it in this calculator's "Efficiency" field also takes off the charging loss, so the estimate becomes a little conservative (on the safe side). |
| power rating | The most power a battery can deliver at one time (kW), also called continuous output. If capacity (kWh) is the size of a water tank, the power rating (kW) is the width of the faucet. A battery rated at 5 kW cannot run devices that add up to more than 5,000 W at once, even with charge left. Some products limit output further during an outage. |
| power | How fast electricity is used, in watts (W) or kilowatts (kW). A power rating and a device's wattage are power. It is related to energy (Wh, kWh) by "energy = power × time". |
| energy | The total amount of electricity used, in watt-hours (Wh) or kilowatt-hours (kWh). Energy = power × time, so 1 kWh is 1,000 W used for 1 hour. The capacity of a home battery or a portable power station (Wh) is energy. |
| watt-hour (Wh) | A unit of energy, 1 W used for 1 hour. It is used for the capacity of portable power stations and power banks. 1000 Wh = 1 kWh, so divide by 1000 to get kWh for this page. |
| state of charge (SOC) | How much charge is left in the battery right now (%), the same as the battery level on a phone. With a DoD of 90%, the battery stops discharging when the SOC reaches 10%. |
| whole-home backup | A battery setup that can power the whole home in an outage (some can also run 240-volt loads such as central air or an electric range). When choosing for outages, check that the devices you want to run are covered. |
| partial-home backup | A battery setup that powers only chosen circuits in an outage (such as the refrigerator outlet and some lights), usually through a separate essential-loads panel. When choosing for outages, check that the devices you want to run are on those circuits. |
| inverter | The device that converts between the battery's DC power and the home's AC power. Every solar or battery system has one, and some energy is lost in the conversion (one of the losses in the efficiency). |
| capacity fade | The slow loss of storage capacity as a battery is charged and discharged again and again (one full charge and discharge is one cycle). After about 10 years, capacity can drop by 20% to 30%, so if you plan to use a battery for a long time, choosing a little extra capacity is one approach. |
| solar self-consumption | Using your own solar power at home instead of sending it to the grid. Storing extra daytime power in a battery and using it after sunset raises self-consumption. The battery size for this is set mostly by your overnight use. With time-of-use rates, the battery can also cover the expensive evening hours. |
| home energy monitor | A device or system that records electricity use hour by hour for the whole home or for each circuit, so you can see your overnight use. Many utilities with smart meters also show hourly use in your online account. Without either, estimate the overnight share from the monthly kWh on your bill. |
Good to know before you start
Here is what helps you use the calculation on this page with real understanding, not just by pressing the button.
If you get stuck, going back over these topics is the quickest way forward.
| Percents (Grades 6–7) |
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| Multiplying and dividing decimals (Grades 5–6) |
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| Converting units (Grades 4–8) |
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| Power and energy (middle school physical science) |
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How to calculate it in Excel
| Rated capacity (kWh) | 10 |
| Depth of discharge (%) | 90 |
| Efficiency (%) | 90 |
| Usable energy (kWh) | =B1*B2/100*B3/100 |
| Energy to use (kWh) | 10 |
| Depth of discharge (%) | 90 |
| Efficiency (%) | 90 |
| Rated capacity needed (kWh) | =B1/(B2/100*B3/100) |
| Usable energy (kWh) | 8.1 |
| Total wattage of devices used together (W) | 200 |
| Runtime (hours) | =B1*1000/B2 |
| Refrigerator wattage (W) | 50 |
| Refrigerator hours of use | 24 |
| LED lights wattage (W) | 40 |
| LED lights hours of use | 6 |
| TV wattage (W) | 100 |
| TV hours of use | 4 |
| Phone charging wattage (W) | 30 |
| Phone charging hours of use | 3 |
| Energy to use (kWh) | =(B1*B2+B3*B4+B5*B6+B7*B8)/1000 |
The first table is a 10 kWh battery at 90% DoD and 90% efficiency, and B4 shows 8.1 (kWh). The second table is for using 10 kWh overnight, and B4 shows about 12.35 (kWh). The third table is 8.1 kWh of usable energy with 200 W in total, and B3 shows 40.5 (hours). The fourth table is one night of an outage with a refrigerator, LED lights, a TV and phone charging, and B9 shows 1.93 (kWh). To add more devices, add rows and add pairs such as "+B9*B10" to the last formula.
How to calculate it in Google Sheets
| Rated capacity (kWh) | 10 |
| Depth of discharge (%) | 90 |
| Efficiency (%) | 90 |
| Usable energy (kWh) | =B1*B2/100*B3/100 |
| Energy to use (kWh) | 10 |
| Depth of discharge (%) | 90 |
| Efficiency (%) | 90 |
| Rated capacity needed (kWh) | =B1/(B2/100*B3/100) |
| Usable energy (kWh) | 8.1 |
| Total wattage of devices used together (W) | 200 |
| Runtime (hours) | =B1*1000/B2 |
| Refrigerator wattage (W) | 50 |
| Refrigerator hours of use | 24 |
| LED lights wattage (W) | 40 |
| LED lights hours of use | 6 |
| TV wattage (W) | 100 |
| TV hours of use | 4 |
| Phone charging wattage (W) | 30 |
| Phone charging hours of use | 3 |
| Energy to use (kWh) | =(B1*B2+B3*B4+B5*B6+B7*B8)/1000 |
How to calculate it in Python
rated_kwh = 10 # rated battery capacity (kWh)
dod_percent = 90 # depth of discharge, DoD (%)
efficiency_percent = 90 # efficiency (%)
# usable energy (usable capacity) = rated capacity x DoD x efficiency
usable_kwh = rated_kwh * dod_percent / 100 * efficiency_percent / 100
print(f"Usable energy: {usable_kwh:.2f} kWh")
# Devices to run in an outage: (name, wattage W, hours of use)
appliances = [
("Refrigerator", 50, 24),
("LED lights", 40, 6),
("TV", 100, 4),
("Phone charging", 30, 3),
]
needed_kwh = sum(watts * hours for _, watts, hours in appliances) / 1000
print(f"Energy to use: {needed_kwh:.2f} kWh")
# rated capacity needed = energy to use / (DoD x efficiency)
required_kwh = needed_kwh / (dod_percent / 100 * efficiency_percent / 100)
print(f"Rated capacity needed: {required_kwh:.2f} kWh")
# runtime = usable energy (Wh) / total wattage of devices used together (W)
total_watts = sum(watts for _, watts, _ in appliances)
hours = usable_kwh * 1000 / total_watts
print(f"Running {total_watts} W together lasts {hours:.1f} hours (about {int(hours)} h {round((hours - int(hours)) * 60)} min)")
How to write it in LaTeX and other math languages (copy and paste)
E_u = E_r × D ÷ 100 × η ÷ 100
E_u = E_r \times \frac{D}{100} \times \frac{\eta}{100}
<math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="block">
<mrow>
<msub><mi>E</mi><mi>u</mi></msub>
<mo>=</mo>
<msub><mi>E</mi><mi>r</mi></msub>
<mo>×</mo>
<mfrac><mi>D</mi><mn>100</mn></mfrac>
<mo>×</mo>
<mfrac><mi>η</mi><mn>100</mn></mfrac>
</mrow>
</math>
E_u = E_r * D/100 * eta/100
usable = rated*dod/100*efficiency/100
E_u := E_r*dod/100*eta/100;
E_u = E_r*D/100*eta/100;
E_u = E_r×D/100×η/100
E_r = E_u ÷ (D ÷ 100 × η ÷ 100)
E_r = \frac{E_u}{\dfrac{D}{100} \times \dfrac{\eta}{100}}
<math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="block">
<mrow>
<msub><mi>E</mi><mi>r</mi></msub>
<mo>=</mo>
<mfrac>
<msub><mi>E</mi><mi>u</mi></msub>
<mrow>
<mfrac><mi>D</mi><mn>100</mn></mfrac>
<mo>×</mo>
<mfrac><mi>η</mi><mn>100</mn></mfrac>
</mrow>
</mfrac>
</mrow>
</math>
E_r = E_u / (D/100 * eta/100)
rated = usable/(dod/100*efficiency/100)
E_r := E_u/(dod/100*eta/100);
E_r = E_u/(D/100*eta/100);
E_r = E_u/(D/100×η/100)
t = E_u × 1000 ÷ P
t = \frac{E_u \times 1000}{P}
<math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="block">
<mrow>
<mi>t</mi>
<mo>=</mo>
<mfrac>
<mrow><msub><mi>E</mi><mi>u</mi></msub><mo>×</mo><mn>1000</mn></mrow>
<mi>P</mi>
</mfrac>
</mrow>
</math>
t = E_u * 1000 / P
hours = usable*1000/power
t := E_u*1000/P;
t = E_u*1000/P;
t = E_u×1000/P
E_u = Σ(P_i × t_i) ÷ 1000
E_u = \frac{\sum_{i} P_i \, t_i}{1000}
<math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="block">
<mrow>
<msub><mi>E</mi><mi>u</mi></msub>
<mo>=</mo>
<mfrac>
<mrow>
<munder><mo>∑</mo><mi>i</mi></munder>
<msub><mi>P</mi><mi>i</mi></msub>
<msub><mi>t</mi><mi>i</mi></msub>
</mrow>
<mn>1000</mn>
</mfrac>
</mrow>
</math>
E_u = (sum_i P_i t_i) / 1000
usable = Total[power*hours]/1000
E_u := add(P[i]*t[i], i = 1..n)/1000;
E_u = sum(P.*t)/1000;
E_u = (∑(P_i×t_i))/1000
How to have ChatGPT do the calculation
You are a calculation assistant for home battery sizing. Do the following calculation by actually running Python code, and base your answer only on the numbers from the execution result (do not answer by mental math or guessing). The depth of discharge (DoD) is 90% and the efficiency is 90%. 1. Find the energy you can really use (kWh) from a battery with a rated capacity of 10 kWh as "rated capacity × DoD ÷ 100 × efficiency ÷ 100". 2. Find the energy needed (kWh) to run the following devices in a power outage as "sum of wattage (W) × hours of use ÷ 1000": - Refrigerator: 50 W, 24 hours - LED lights: 40 W, 6 hours - TV: 100 W, 4 hours - Phone charging: 30 W, 3 hours 3. Find the rated capacity (kWh) needed to supply the energy in step 2 as "energy needed ÷ (DoD ÷ 100 × efficiency ÷ 100)". 4. Find how long (hours) the battery in step 1 lasts when the four devices above (220 W in total) run together, as "usable energy × 1000 ÷ total wattage", and also write it as "X hours Y minutes". Show the formulas you used and the numbers from the execution result.
How to Use
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1Enter your numbersType the numbers you want to calculate with into the input fields
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2CalculatePress the "Calculate" button
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3Check the resultThe result appears on the spot. The same page also explains the idea behind the calculation and the formula
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